Le Petit Beret, Noughty Wine by Thomson & Scott, Pierre Chavin, So Jennie Paris Sparkling Rosé Sampler (4 × 750 mL)

Le Petit Béret works among the vineyards of the Hérault, in the Languedoc. What it makes is not dealcoholized wine, and that distinction is the whole of the idea.

The house holds a patent on a method in which no alcohol is produced at all. Instead of fermenting and then stripping, the drink is built from infusions and natural extraction, worked out with oenologists and extraction specialists. It takes fewer steps than dealcoholization and less energy, and nothing has to be undone at the end.

The range runs wider than wine. White, red and rosé profiles, sparkling bottles, spirits and beers — all of them arrived at the same way.

In 2010, Jennie Kergoat-Ruelland was planning a royal wedding in Abu Dhabi. The event was as lavish as any she had run, and when the moment came to raise a glass the guests who did not drink were toasting with fruit juice. She set out to make something that belonged on the same table.

So Jennie Paris is made in France from selected grape musts, lightly carbonated and never fermented — 0.0% alcohol, and Halal certified. The butterfly on the bottle is screen-printed in 21-carat gold, which is the part people remember. It is poured at the Four Seasons George V, at Harrods, and in Qatar Airways First and Business class.

Maison Chavin works out of Béziers, in the Languedoc, and makes alcohol-free wine at a scale almost nobody else does — nine separate ranges rather than one, sold in more than sixty countries.

The division that matters to anyone buying runs underneath the names. Some ranges are made as wine and have the alcohol taken back out at the end. Others are never fermented at all, built instead from grape juice, infusions of oak and grape seed, and long maceration, so there is no alcohol to remove. Pierre Zéro, the flagship and the oldest of them, is the first kind. ÔPIA and Le Petit Étoilé are the second.

That split is also where the sulfites fall. Le Petit Étoilé is made without preservatives or sulfites and was built for French bistros; the Pierre Zéro bottles declare sulfites on the label. Two answers to two different questions, from one house.

The grapes are the French standards — Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot — and the bottles come full-size and in smaller formats for one.