Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company, Pierre Chavin, So Jennie Paris Fine Dining Set (3 × 750 mL)

Maison Chavin works out of Béziers, in the Languedoc, and makes alcohol-free wine at a scale almost nobody else does — nine separate ranges rather than one, sold in more than sixty countries.

The division that matters to anyone buying runs underneath the names. Some ranges are made as wine and have the alcohol taken back out at the end. Others are never fermented at all, built instead from grape juice, infusions of oak and grape seed, and long maceration, so there is no alcohol to remove. Pierre Zéro, the flagship and the oldest of them, is the first kind. ÔPIA and Le Petit Étoilé are the second.

That split is also where the sulfites fall. Le Petit Étoilé is made without preservatives or sulfites and was built for French bistros; the Pierre Zéro bottles declare sulfites on the label. Two answers to two different questions, from one house.

The grapes are the French standards — Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot — and the bottles come full-size and in smaller formats for one.

In 2010, Jacob Kocemba was working the floor of a Michelin-starred kitchen in Copenhagen. The chef changed a dessert at short notice, and with more than seventeen hundred wines in the cellar behind him there was nothing on the list that worked with it. What he poured instead was a tea he had blended himself. Guests began asking for it by name.

Hundreds of trials later he had the basis for a range. In 2017 he partnered with Bo Sten Hansen and they sold their first bottle in Copenhagen that May. It is poured today in Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. When Fortnum & Mason first stocked the teas in London, the window read "Tea but not as you know it."

In 2010, Jennie Kergoat-Ruelland was planning a royal wedding in Abu Dhabi. The event was as lavish as any she had run, and when the moment came to raise a glass the guests who did not drink were toasting with fruit juice. She set out to make something that belonged on the same table.

So Jennie Paris is made in France from selected grape musts, lightly carbonated and never fermented — 0.0% alcohol, and Halal certified. The butterfly on the bottle is screen-printed in 21-carat gold, which is the part people remember. It is poured at the Four Seasons George V, at Harrods, and in Qatar Airways First and Business class.