Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company Tasting Set (3 × 750 mL)

Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company builds its bottles from tea, and the three in this box take three different routes. BLÅ layers morning-picked jasmine into green tea and finishes on Darjeeling first flush, the delicate floral picking, which leaves a tannin at the back of the palate. Lyserød works hibiscus and red fruit over an oolong and lands drier than either of the others. Lysegrøn is sencha, lemongrass and orange peel, with a minerality that puts it next to oysters.

Tasted side by side over one evening, the differences are obvious in a way they are not one bottle at a time. Pour a glass of each and the question of which direction suits your table answers itself — floral, dry or green. It is also the quickest way to find the one worth buying by the case.

Each is a full 750 mL bottle, so the one you settle on can carry a dinner rather than being a sip you liked once. Serve them cold in a wine glass, the way you would a white, and pour across a course rather than all at once. They keep their bead to the bottom of the glass.