Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company Lyserød (750 mL)

The white tea here is Silver Needle, picked in southern China at about 1,000 metres before the leaves have opened — just the young buds, still covered in the fine pale hairs that give the tea its name, taken by hand. It brews almost apricot-coloured, smooth, with no astringency at all.

Against that sits a Happy Valley oolong, which is unusual: an oolong grown on a Darjeeling estate at 2,100 metres, semi-oxidised and stopped partway, so it carries both the nuttiness of an oolong and the muscatel note Darjeeling is known for. The hibiscus does the rest — it gives the pale pink colour and most of the tartness.

This is the driest bottle Copenhagen makes, and the one to reach for if sweetness is what usually puts you off alcohol-free sparkling. Delicate rather than bold. It rewards a cold glass and something salty.