Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company BLÅ (750 mL)

The jasmine is grown in China at around 1,300 to 1,450 metres, where the blossoms are picked in the morning and layered into green tea leaves — an infusion repeated over hours or weeks, depending on the blend. The tannin comes from Darjeeling first flush, the delicate, floral picking rather than the muscatel-heavy second.

Pale amber in the glass, and the colour is the first hint that this is tea rather than an imitation of wine. Most alcohol-free sparkling builds its body from sugar; this builds it from tea. The white teas round it, the green teas give it depth, and the Darjeeling leaves something at the back of the palate that behaves the way grape skin does in wine — which is why it holds its shape against food where most 0% bottles thin out into soft drink.

It isn’t the driest bottle we sell. Its own sibling Lyserød is drier, at the same price. But if you want the one that makes the case for tea as a wine alternative rather than a substitute for it, this is it.