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How beClub worksThe Dry Pour
What is in these drinks, how they are made, and how to choose. Written by people who buy the catalog and taste most of it.
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Recipes & Mocktails
Drinks grouped by the bottle they start from, so you can tell before you read whether you can make one tonight.
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Clean, cold and citrus-led. Non-alcoholic vodka asks the least of a drink and gives the most room to everything else in it.
Vodka is the one spirit defined by what it is not, so nobody has replaced it by aiming at neutrality — a non-alcoholic vodka that tastes of nothing tastes of nothing. The bottles go in different directions instead: savory, spiced, or botanical and citrus-forward. Which one you want depends on the drink rather than on which is best.
This is the direction that makes the most sense of the category. A Bloody Mary was never carrying its flavor in the vodka, so a bottle that brings cucumber and celery salt of its own is adding something the original did not have rather than approximating something it lost.
It is made to be mixed, not sipped. The producer says so on the label — roughly one part to three. Poured neat it reads as thin and salty, which is not a fault so much as a category error.

Cucumber and celery salt with a capsicum kick — built for a Bloody Mary.
What a drinker actually misses when the alcohol goes is weight in the mouth and heat at the back of the throat. Neither is a flavor, which is why they are so hard to replace. This one answers with cinnamon and a deliberate burn rather than pretending the problem does not exist.
It holds up shaken, which is the test that matters. A drink built and stirred forgives a lot; ten seconds in a tin with ice does not.

Green apple and cinnamon spice, with a warm alcohol-like finish.
Distilled botanicals in water, each one steeped separately and blended. The producer places it against citrussy vodka and against gin, and it works in either seat — which makes it the most flexible bottle here and the least faithful.
Treat it as a spirit in its own right. Swapped into a recipe expecting neutrality it will take the drink somewhere else, usually somewhere good, but not where the recipe was going.

Lemon, jasmine and lavender — citrus and sherbet with a herbal finish.
More vodka drinks fail on salt and acid than on anything else. A Bloody Mary that tastes like tomato juice is under-salted; a lemon drop that tastes like lemonade is under-acidified. Taste before it reaches the glass, while you can still fix it.
Without alcohol there is less carrying the drink, so temperature and dilution do more of the work. Ten seconds in the tin is the minimum for anything served up, and the glass should have been in the freezer.
A Bloody Mary. It is the classic that loses least without the alcohol — the tomato, the acid and the seasoning were doing all of it — so it is the fairest introduction to the category and the least likely to disappoint. Save anything served up for once you know which bottle you like.
Not really, and unlike the other spirits that is not a criticism. Vodka drunk neat is mostly texture and cold, both of which come from the alcohol. Every bottle here is built to be mixed, and one of them says so on its label.
Because a version with no flavor would be water. The point of vodka in a cocktail is weight, heat and a clean canvas; take the alcohol away and the first two vanish and the third is indistinguishable from the mixer. So each of these puts something back — savory, spiced or botanical — and which one suits you depends entirely on what you are making.
It is the strangest, which is not the same thing. Whiskey is harder to make convincing because there is so much to imitate. Vodka has almost nothing to imitate, so the honest bottles stop trying and become something else — and the drinks that survive best are the ones where vodka was never the point.
Same structure, different bottle.
— The Dry Pour —

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